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No. Polishing should refine the surface, not compensate for unresolved nibs or texture issues. Proper denibbing and preparation are essential.

Halos are typically caused by over-refining the repaired area while failing to blend outward into surrounding paint, creating a mismatch in gloss or texture.

Because clearcoat thickness is non-uniform, working areas are confined, and heat builds rapidly, leaving less tolerance for aggressive correction or prolonged polishing.

Spot repair polishing is the controlled refinement of a localised paint repair to remove defects, equalise texture and gloss, and blend new paint seamlessly into surrounding OEM finishes.

The right approach depends on the surface, the defect, and the result required:

• One-step efficiency - use a compound with both high cut and gloss (e.g. G360 Super Fast Compound) for maximum speed and reduced stages.
• Two-stage flexibility - use a compound like G3 Premium with different pads (yellow foam for cut, black foam for gloss) for a tailored result.
• Multi-step systems - lower-priced compounds generally cut slower and deliver less gloss, so a second finishing product is required.

Pads make a significant difference to how a compound performs. By pairing the same compound with different pads, you can push the result towards faster defect removal or higher gloss:

• Super High Cut Pad – increase cutting power, ideal for coarse hand-sanded P1500 marks.
• Compounding Foams (Yellow) – balance cut and finish, often used after DA sanding.
• Finishing Foams (Black) – refine gloss by reducing haze and micro-scratches.

The pad acts as the compound’s partner - it determines how aggressively the abrasives work against the surface and how fine the finish will appear. This makes pad choice just as important as compound choice in achieving the right balance of cut and gloss.

Traditionally, polishing has involved a balance - compounds designed for fast cutting remove heavy defects quickly but may leave surface haze or micro-scratches that reduce gloss. Compounds designed for finishing give a clear, mirror-like result but lack the abrasive strength to tackle deeper marks.

This is why multi-stage processes are common - a cutting stage to remove defects, followed by a finishing stage to refine gloss.

However, the pad also plays a major role in this trade-off.

• Using a high cut pad increases the cutting power of the same compound, helping with coarse sanding marks.
• Switching to a softer finishing pad with the very same compound allows it to refine the surface further and improve gloss.
• Mid-range compounding foams balance the two, giving cut with good clarity.

So, while the compound formula sets the baseline, the choice of pad and machine can push performance more towards cut or gloss depending on the job.

Gloss is the clarity, depth and reflectivity of a surface after polishing. In simple terms, it is how "mirror-like" the finish appears - free from haze, micro-scratches and swirl marks. A high gloss finish reflects light sharply and shows clear, undistorted images.

How gloss is measured

• Gloss Units (GU): Measured using a glossmeter, which shines light onto the surface at a fixed angle (commonly 20°, 60° or 85°) and records how much is reflected back.
• Distinctness of Image (DOI): Goes further than gloss by measuring how sharp or blurred a reflection appears — important for high-end finishes.
• Haze: Measures the “milky” or dull appearance caused by fine surface micro-scratches that scatter light.

A surface can have “high gloss” readings on a glossmeter but still look poor to the eye if haze or low DOI is present.

In polishing practice

• Compounds with stronger finishing ability reduce haze and improve DOI as well as gloss.
• Pad and machine choice influence gloss level — finishing foams (black) are designed to maximise clarity.
• High-gloss results matter in automotive, marine and industrial applications, where finish quality is a visible marker of workmanship.

Cut refers to how quickly and effectively a compound can remove surface defects such as sanding marks, scratches or oxidation. A high cut compound uses engineered abrasive particles to abrade the surface more aggressively, removing deeper marks in less time.

• Faster cut = quicker defect removal
• Higher cut compounds are often used as the first step in a polishing process
• The level of cut achieved depends on both the compound formula and the pad or machine used

After washing your car, pay attention to how water behaves on the surface. Many traditional car waxes make water form beads that roll off easily. However, some waxes and paint protection products are designed to encourage sheeting, where water runs off in smooth layers. Both can be signs of good protection - the key is whether the behaviour changes over time.

If water no longer beads tightly or sheets smoothly, and instead clings to the paint or leaves large wet patches, your wax layer is likely wearing away. Other signs include paintwork that looks dull, feels rough, or becomes dirty again very quickly.

Regularly waxing a car restores gloss and adds a protective barrier against UV rays, road grime, bird droppings, and other contaminants. For most cars, reapplying wax every 2–3 months helps maintain paint protection and shine, though frequency depends on driving conditions and whether the car is garaged or left outside.

You’ll know it’s time to polish when the paintwork no longer looks smooth and reflective. Common signs include swirl marks, fine scratches, water spots, or a dull, hazy finish where the paint doesn’t reflect light evenly. These defects are caused by everyday wear - things like washing with a sponge, brushing against hedges, or exposure to the weather.

Start with G3 Pro All-in-One Polish for overall clarity, or Scratch Remover for specific marks.

You can, but it won’t remove the scratch. Wax may hide scratches slightly for a short time, but only polishing (or a scratch remover) can permanently improve them.

To permanently remove scratches, use G3 Pro Scratch Remover - no tools needed!

No. Polishing is an occasional step, only needed when paint has visible scratches or dullness. Waxing is a regular step, recommended every few months to maintain protection.

Keep protection topped up with G3 Pro Resin Superwax or Spray Wax after washing.

Polishing should always come before waxing - but only if polishing is required. Polishing works by lightly removing a very thin layer of paint or clearcoat to level out surface defects such as fine scratches, swirl marks, or dullness. This step restores clarity and smoothness to the surface.

Once the paintwork is restored, finish with waxing. Wax does not remove defects - it provides a protective layer that helps seal in the polished finish, adds gloss, and protects the paint from water, dirt, and environmental contaminants.

If you wax without polishing first, the scratches and marks will remain visible under the protective layer. 

If you polish but do not wax afterwards, the surface will be clean and smooth but left unprotected, so it may quickly lose its shine.

In short - polish only when needed to correct defects, then wax to protect and maintain the finish.

Both are abrasive products that remove a very thin layer of paint to restore the surface. Technically, there’s no hard dividing line between the two. However, the market generally uses:

• Cutting compound = a stronger, more aggressive product for heavy scratches or sanding marks.
• Polish = a lighter product for finer defects or swirl marks, often finishing to a higher gloss.

In the G3 Pro range:

• G3 Pro All-in-One Polish handles light scratches and swirls by hand or machine.
• For machine users: G3 Pro DA Cutting Compound (heavier cut) followed by DA Fine Polish (finer finish) offers a professional-grade two-step solution.