How to Remove Car Scratches Using G3 Pro Scratch Remover

G3 Pro Scratch Remover (7262 / 7263) contains a new and improved formulation – building upon the strengths of our award-winning original Paste (7163) and Liquid (7164) formulations with some major improvements:

Easier Application
The new formulation is highly lubricated. No water needed. Applicators and Cloths glide with ease over the surface, letting the polish do the work.

Better Finish
Unlike its predecessors, the new formulation leaves a fine, high gloss finish and removes the need for a follow-on polish (such as G3 Pro Colour Restorer)

Cleaner Chemistry
The new formulation is VOC-Free (Volatile Organic Compound-free); no harmful vapours, no strong odours and a lower environmental impact.

First - carry out a visual test; if the scratch hasn't penetrated through the top layer of the paint to the point where you can see the metal or black plastic underneath then it may be treatable:

Second - carry out a "fingernail" test by running a fingernail across the scratch:

• If you can run a fingernail over a scratch mark without your nail catching, then G3 Pro Scratch Remover can remove it – quickly, easily and permanently.
   
• For deeper scratches that catch your nail, Scratch Remover can reduce the appearance of the defect by following the same process.

The "fingernail" test is a quick way to check the depth of a scratch before using G3 Pro Scratch Remover:

Simply run a fingernail across the scratch:

• If you can run a fingernail over a scratch mark without your nail catching, then G3 Pro Scratch Remover can remove it – quickly, easily and permanently.
   
• For deeper scratches that catch your nail, Scratch Remover can reduce the appearance of the defect by following the same process.

it's important to also visually assess the scratch:

• Defects that have scraped the paint to the point where you can see either the metal or black plastic underneath are simply too deep for any simple scratch removal process and will require rectification work to be done by a trade professional.
   
• Paint transfer as a result of a light collision can be removed with G3 Pro Scratch Remover

Yes - G3 Pro Scratch Remover can be used by machine (Rotary or Dual Action).

It was designed for hand use, but the improved, more lubricated formulation helps applicators glide more easily and for longer without the need for water. This makes it more machine-friendly than previous Scratch Remover products.

That said, for machine polishing, a dedicated product like G3 Pro D.A. Cutting Compound may be better suited – especially depending on the surface area of the defects and the machine / pad size you intend to use.

Polishing by machine typically requires more compound. This is due to the larger pad surface, heat build-up, and pad absorption. For smaller or isolated defects, hand application gives more control and is often easier for less experienced users.

If you do choose to machine polish with G3 Pro Scratch Remover, we recommend:

• A mini polisher - like the G Plus Dual Action Mini Polisher
• A foam pad that can cut and finish – like the G Mop Premium Angled Compounding Foam

If the finish isn’t as glossy as expected after Machine polishing, apply more product by hand using a cloth and follow our "by hand" instructions.

Please note – machines vary widely in speed, throw, pressure and pad type. Incorrect use may cause unwanted defects. We recommend machine polishing with Scratch Remover only for those with prior experience.

In summary – G3 Pro Scratch Remover can be used by machine, but you may get better results by hand on smaller areas, or by using a dedicated machine compound on larger panels.

No. G3 Pro Scratch Remover is for use on painted, lacquered and GRP surfaces, and is not for use on glass or plastics.

The exception is on clear plastics such as headlights which – when cloudy or faded - can be polished with G3 Pro Scratch Remover.

No – G3 Pro Scratch Remover works on the top surface of clearcoats / paints, unfortunately, stone chips cause deeper damage. 

Defects like stone chips that have scraped the paint to the point where you can see either the metal or black plastic underneath are simply too deep for any simple scratch removal process.

Stone chips can be treated by a trade professional who will typically fill, level and respray to make them vanish.

Fingerprint stains are typically caused by hand creams and sun lotions.

If you’ve applied cream to your hands and open your car door, the cream can transfer onto your paintwork and can eat away at the surface – this is what causes the staining. 

The stains however can be restored with G3 Pro Scratch Remover and a white G3 Pro Applicator Waffle Pad following the same process as our recommended scratch removal process.

Once restored, you'll want to protect and maintain your newly restored finish with a wax.

For further details, see our dedicated solutions pages:

"How to Use: G3 Pro Scratch Remover"

"How to Protect a Painted Finish"

Bird droppings are very caustic and can eat into your paintwork. They need to be removed immediately to prevent damage. 

See our dedicated solutions page:

“How to Remove Ingrained Dirt, Bugs and Bird Lime” 

If, however, etching occurs due to droppings remaining on the surface for too long they can usually be removed using G3 Pro Scratch Remover and a white G3 Pro Applicator Waffle Pad following the same process as our recommended scratch removal process.

Once restored, you'll want to protect and maintain your newly restored finish with a wax.

For further details, see our dedicated solutions pages:

“How to Use: G3 Pro Scratch Remover” 

“How to Protect a Painted Finish” 

Headlight lenses becoming cloudy and faded from the UV rays in sunlight is a very common problem, but particular in hotter climates due to the intensity of sunlight and sandstorms.

There are 2 potential solutions depending on severity:

FOR LIGHTLY HAZED LENSES:

Using a G3 Pro “Restore” product like G3 Pro Scratch Remover (by hand) or G3 Pro All-in-One Polish (by machine) is a good choice for this, or any of Farécla’s trade range “Step 1” cutting compounds.

FOR SEVERE FADING:

If polishing alone does not remove all the yellowing, then a 5-step sanding process* (P500 -> P800 -> P1500 -> P2000 -> P3000) will be necessary, followed by polishing as above.

* It’s also good practice to use a guide coat between sanding steps.

[!] The sanding process will remove the original clearcoat, to protect the finished surface (i.e. after polishing) from future UV degradation it is a good idea to apply a layer of UV-resistant clearcoat where possible. If you are unable to apply a UV clearcoat afterwards, then we’d recommend a 2~3 monthly application of a UV inhibiting wax.